From the Mediterranean Sea to the Pacific Ocean, this is my first "round-the-world" tour and the first time I am traveling alone. It's also the first time I am NOT the leader of the group. This will be a huge adventure for me, one that tests my patience (smile), stamina and my ability to adapt. I can't wait!
Friday, April 19, 2013
The Shah's Palace
Built in 1748 by a Persian shah, this palace is right above our caravan hotel. The painted walls and the stained glass windows were amazing and roughly 90% original. Stunning!
Caravan-Suray
Well.....shazaam! This place is right out of the Silk Road storybooks. Original down to the square nailheads. The lower floors were for animals and servants, the upper floors for the traders and travelers. We have suited Zmd they are sweet. Still trying to figure out when the "budget" part of this trip begins....grin!
Azerbaijan
We slept in and rise to another breakfast forgot royalty. The ladies of the house it seems, were intent on cooking every dish they knew and st the end there was SO MUCH food left over! They were so sweet and accommodating and their home was quite lovely.
The border was five minutes away and Sasa sped up the process a bit by getting us to the head of the line. We were amused by the sign telling us "good luck" as we headed for customs. We walked through both Georgian and Azer immigration without issue and then waited a good long time as the truck went through two inspections and had to go back for yet one more stamp. And then, again to pay a road tax and more insurance. PS: the wine made it through!
As we drove through the huge valley with the Greater Caucasus to the north and the Lesser Caucasus to the south we passed one small town after another, continually descending in altitude. Still overcast and drizzling, there began to be signs of it warming up.
Just part the border it still looked much like Georgia with a few churches and the typical houses. Fifty kilometers on though, mosques began to pop up and public buildings and schools were more modern or new. This is a secular country and so far noticeably "western." The Azeri economy is much stronger and that was evident in the infrastructure.
We stopped for lunch in a meadow/local dump and fixed an awesome pasta salad! A bit in the vine in our glasses and we we on the road again for another three hours reaching Sheki and our Caravan-Suray (Silk Road Roadhouse) for the night.
The border was five minutes away and Sasa sped up the process a bit by getting us to the head of the line. We were amused by the sign telling us "good luck" as we headed for customs. We walked through both Georgian and Azer immigration without issue and then waited a good long time as the truck went through two inspections and had to go back for yet one more stamp. And then, again to pay a road tax and more insurance. PS: the wine made it through!
As we drove through the huge valley with the Greater Caucasus to the north and the Lesser Caucasus to the south we passed one small town after another, continually descending in altitude. Still overcast and drizzling, there began to be signs of it warming up.
Just part the border it still looked much like Georgia with a few churches and the typical houses. Fifty kilometers on though, mosques began to pop up and public buildings and schools were more modern or new. This is a secular country and so far noticeably "western." The Azeri economy is much stronger and that was evident in the infrastructure.
We stopped for lunch in a meadow/local dump and fixed an awesome pasta salad! A bit in the vine in our glasses and we we on the road again for another three hours reaching Sheki and our Caravan-Suray (Silk Road Roadhouse) for the night.
Thursday, April 18, 2013
Gremi and Lagpdekhi
Another COLD but leisure morning was followed a visit to the local market for lunch supplies. Our journey today was only 90 KM with a stop to visit the fortress and church at Gremi. It was built in 1360 AD and was the seat of local government until the late 19th century. The frescos in the church were magnificent.
We stopped lunch at a hillside turnout overlooking the valley and then continued to Lagpdekhi were we will stay the on preparation for our border crossing into Azerbaijan in the morning. We are ten miles from the Russian border and four miles from the Azer border. Three languages are spoken in this village. Interesting!
We stopped lunch at a hillside turnout overlooking the valley and then continued to Lagpdekhi were we will stay the on preparation for our border crossing into Azerbaijan in the morning. We are ten miles from the Russian border and four miles from the Azer border. Three languages are spoken in this village. Interesting!
An amazing family experience
We traveled to a small family vineyard where we met the owner, his mother snd wife. We were shown the underground fermenting vats and presses. Then came the tasting of three different wines. They offered us homemade cheeses and bread and we toasted each other again and again. Tastings consisted of full glasses each time and then more if we wanted...as much more as we wanted.
Rico, the vintner, then started a small bonfire and roasted hunks if fresh pork on spits. What followed was food orgy of the family's favorite dishes, salads, cheese, and breads. More toasts and more wine...and then the homemade cha-cha. Needless to say we had an awesome time and walked away with rosary cheeks, full bellies, and warmed hearts. This was not a commercial winery. This was a local family inviting us into their home, and they did agree to sell us adore jugs of wine which we "hope" will carry us through to Ashgabat.
If that wasn't enough we then drove a formal winery on the estate if an 1800s nobleman. We toured the mansion, then did dime tastings. In the end we purchased a couple of really nice reds.
On the way back to the homestay we stopped at a local firehouse as a surprise for Enid. It was her birthday and she "loves" firemen! Back at the house we gave her a surprise party complete with balloons and cake! What fun!
Rico, the vintner, then started a small bonfire and roasted hunks if fresh pork on spits. What followed was food orgy of the family's favorite dishes, salads, cheese, and breads. More toasts and more wine...and then the homemade cha-cha. Needless to say we had an awesome time and walked away with rosary cheeks, full bellies, and warmed hearts. This was not a commercial winery. This was a local family inviting us into their home, and they did agree to sell us adore jugs of wine which we "hope" will carry us through to Ashgabat.
If that wasn't enough we then drove a formal winery on the estate if an 1800s nobleman. We toured the mansion, then did dime tastings. In the end we purchased a couple of really nice reds.
On the way back to the homestay we stopped at a local firehouse as a surprise for Enid. It was her birthday and she "loves" firemen! Back at the house we gave her a surprise party complete with balloons and cake! What fun!
Shaumta Monastary
We woke to a few inches of fresh snow and a really cold morning. Seeing us shivering at the breakfast table, Sasa decided to press the innkeeper to turn on the hidden furnace...ah, there actually IS one after all.
We transferred to a private bus for today's tour and drove a short way out of town. The Monastary is run and maintained strictly by women and had some really nice frescos. There was a couple if inches of snow which prompted a snowball fight!
We transferred to a private bus for today's tour and drove a short way out of town. The Monastary is run and maintained strictly by women and had some really nice frescos. There was a couple if inches of snow which prompted a snowball fight!
Tuesday, April 16, 2013
Burr-r-r-r
Ah, nothing like WET cold rain! We're at 3,000 feet and it's cold AND raining. This lovely homestay is also NOT heated! So we've dug out out sleeping bags and woollies for a cold night indoors! Gotta love overlanding. Ha-ha.
A free morning and departure to Telavi
A long lazy morning and a short visit to the Georgian State Museum rewarded us by viewing gold and silver finds from 2000BC grave sites, an exposition of the Russian occupation and holocaust 1921-1991, and a unique collection of Persian and Tibetan art. Sorry no photos.
We loaded up Sura, were joined by our new family member, Val from Roma (photo below) and departed for the wine country and the town of Telavi. All of us have now had a cold, some worse than others...and a few have had "revenge of the road." For once I have only had the sore throat thing. I have been VERY careful about what goes in so I am not inconvenienced by what comes out!
The highway out of town carried a familiar name, "the George W. Bush Highway." OMG! I wonder what we invested in to have this "honor"?
We drove into the hills. It was a cloudy and cool day. The hills were green and the fruit and nut trees covered in blossoms. The road varied from pavement to gravel and dirt and it took about three hours to reach our destination.
The small village of Telavi, on the Lesser Caucasus foothills welcomed us with a brisk temperature. Our rooms tonight are on a large family home with charming carved wood stairs and antiques. Laundry facilities were arranged and we settled in for a relaxing evening and a home cooked meal.
We loaded up Sura, were joined by our new family member, Val from Roma (photo below) and departed for the wine country and the town of Telavi. All of us have now had a cold, some worse than others...and a few have had "revenge of the road." For once I have only had the sore throat thing. I have been VERY careful about what goes in so I am not inconvenienced by what comes out!
The highway out of town carried a familiar name, "the George W. Bush Highway." OMG! I wonder what we invested in to have this "honor"?
We drove into the hills. It was a cloudy and cool day. The hills were green and the fruit and nut trees covered in blossoms. The road varied from pavement to gravel and dirt and it took about three hours to reach our destination.
The small village of Telavi, on the Lesser Caucasus foothills welcomed us with a brisk temperature. Our rooms tonight are on a large family home with charming carved wood stairs and antiques. Laundry facilities were arranged and we settled in for a relaxing evening and a home cooked meal.
Monday, April 15, 2013
Falling in love with Tblisi
Got in late afternoon and settled into a REALLY nice hotel. I got a king bed room all to myself. We went out for dinner in a cellar restaurant and enjoyed another Georgian banquet and entertainment. Great fun!
A lazy and late morning was followed by a grand walking tour of the old city. Hammans, churches, castles, amazing views, and some wild modern architecture. This is a happening town. We toured some of the old quarter as well with grand old stained glass windows and finely detailed carved wooden screens. The city is alive with sounds and color.
We stopped for lunch before breaking up and wandering around on our own. We discovered a flea market of art, Russian military memorabilia, and art. That kept us busy for a couple of hours and I found a couple cool items. Next I went in search if a good pillow-it's gonna be a long 110 more days without one. Tonight will be Italian night and we are in search of pasta!
A lazy and late morning was followed by a grand walking tour of the old city. Hammans, churches, castles, amazing views, and some wild modern architecture. This is a happening town. We toured some of the old quarter as well with grand old stained glass windows and finely detailed carved wooden screens. The city is alive with sounds and color.
We stopped for lunch before breaking up and wandering around on our own. We discovered a flea market of art, Russian military memorabilia, and art. That kept us busy for a couple of hours and I found a couple cool items. Next I went in search if a good pillow-it's gonna be a long 110 more days without one. Tonight will be Italian night and we are in search of pasta!
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