Sunday, May 26, 2013

On to Bishkek

We broke camp and traveled out of the valley and onto the Bishkek plain. Along the way we stopped at Balasagym, the ruins of a 9th century city and famous stop along the Silk Route. The minaret was on great condition and originally stood 140ft tall. The gravestones were unique as well, each depicting a human form or face. The wildflowers were just starting to bloom and the sun had come out. 

An hour out of the city we actually drove through a short stretch of highway in Kazakhstan.  It was one of those land swap deals. No documents were required but there were barrier fences on both sides of the road. After about a mile we were back in Kyrgyzstan once again. So...put another country on my list!  Yippee!

We arrived in the city late  afternoon and settled in at our comfortable city centre location.  Two nights of comfort and convenience, a chance to wash  EVERYTHING in my bag, and a grand goodbye dinner await. 

Bishkek is the relaxed capital of Kyrgyzstan with a pleasant laid-back atmosphere. The city centers around Ala-too Square, previously known as Lenin's Square under the previous Soviet regime. Lenin used to stand in his concrete overcoat in the middle of the square, proudly gesturing towards the mountains. The century old oaks here and all along Freedom Avenue make Bishkek one of the greenest cities in Central Asia.  Quite pretty. 





Chong Kemin Valley

REAL fried eggs, cooked to order, and the best attempt yet at a slice of ham, started our day. It doesn't get much better than that! 

We stopped at the local market (pouring rain maketh not for a lovely shopping experience). We foraged for the next four meals and then said goodbye to Kara-kol and our really, REALLY NICE hotel.  

A six hour drive-we've heard that before...:-)-lay ahead.  However, before leaving civilization we did make a few more stops-a real grocery store for peanut butter and coffee beans (no luck), post office to mail cards, liquor store for MORE vodka, and back to the hotel for one last REAL toilet moment!

We headed north through the Kara-kol Valley and then west skirting Ysyk-kol lake and the Tian Shan mountains to our right. . These beauties are part of the Himalayas. We are now only a few hundred miles from the Tibetan plateau and we will be there...in about a week. 

This mountain range rises to 25,000 feet and is really amazing in size and scope. Watching them jut abruptly from the flat plains was stunning!  

Just before lunch we stopped at a few lake vendors and bought smoked salmon, rainbow trout, and caviar. We also got a jar of pickled mushrooms and a bottle of raspberry liquor. The fresh salmon caviar was a plus. All of that came to a grand total of $25. We'll be eating good tonight. 

We found a spot for lunch by the lake before heading up into the mountains and had a grand lunch.  We traveled through first, a desert canyon, and then through lush grassy mountains until reaching our campsite. 

We set up camp together for the last time as a large gruop amd my team was on charge of dinner. A 2 oz portion of Smoked salmon on a canapés with a Dijon mustatd dressing, served on cucumber and fresh rye bread with a tangy fig balsamic vinegar topping. Next was a generous portion of fresh salmon caviar served on a lightly baked shortbread biscuit. Second course was a hearty eggplant and tomato stew served over tasty egg pasta. Dessert was a chocolate covered biscuit (cookie) coveted with sesme and poppie seeds and accompanied by Krygyi cognac. Now this is camping!. 

We ended the night with another roaring campfire and several rounds of "I love you, man" fueled by vodka and a genuine appreciation for the amazing camaraderie of our group!