Monday, May 13, 2013

Over the pass and into the Fergana Valley

Our drive today took us east of Tashkent and into the mountain range that separates Uzbekistan from Kyrgyzstan. We enjoyed nice four-lane divided roads right up to the mountains.

We passed hundreds of acres of cotton fields and orchards, and of course loads of those amazing red poppies. Factories and smokestacks spewing crap into the air dotting the horizon all around.

We watched as the mountains grew closer and the valley floor higher. Soon we were in the mountains, the road still wide and divided. We began to wonder when the scarry part would begin. We passed several coal mines and security checkpoints. At one stop we noticed that our Daewoo sedan had 493,000 km on the odometer...:-).

At the summit we began to smell a scam as the road was still great, loads of big trucks and traffic, and NO TOUR BUSSES! We've seen this before where the government restricts major carriers in order to provide a market for local vendors...in this case, our pleasant drivers in their private cars!

Over the summit and quickly down to the Fergana Valley floor we found ourselves on the dry side of the mountain range and into sagebrush and rock. Not what we were expecting! And for the first, at the next checkpoint we were asked for our passports.

Continuing to descend we eventually crossed the Sidaryo River and on to the huge fertile plains-the food basket of Uzbekistan.

Just before lunch we visited the 1750 palace of Khudayarkhan. The painted plaster walls and ceiling were really cool. We had lunch at a local cafe and then drove on to Fergana City and our hotel for the night. Tomorrow we head into the wilderness and no wifi for almost a week. I hope we survive!
















When I grow up I wanna be like Alex Dekker

We got up early, packed and met our drivers. Today we split up, three to a car, and prepared for our 350 km drive over Kamchik Pass. See www.dangerousroads.org!

As excited as we were to get started, I was also quite sad as it was time to say goodbye to Alex. Over the past 40 days I have grown so fond of him, his amazing energy and courage, and his contagious laugh. He has been a grand companion and a good friend. I wish I had a daughter to marry him! Ha-ha!

There's no doubt we will stay good friends for the times that come. So with a smile on my face and a few tears in my eyes I say goodbye to a really cool fellow and one hell of a grand traveler.

Postscript: If you go hiking with Alex make sure you have plenty of water and some food! You never know where you'll end up!

A change in the menu

We four Aussies ventured out on to the street for something different and settled on a Korean spot with yummy photos. A picture of local water wet our palettes followed by some beautiful dishes. We went next door and bought draft beer and brought it back to the restaurant. With Imodium at our bedsides we drifted off into blissful sleep with smiles on our faces and garlic on our breath.