Up before dawn and it's snowing!

A busy day started with breaking camp before dawn. Snow flurries greeted us as we hurriedly stowed Sura and readied her for the road. Breakfast would come after we have covered several miles in daylight.

We continued north and over the pass winding once again through beautiful canyons laced with fast running streams. Along the shore of a reservoir we stopped for "brekky" (camp-speak for breakfast). While there we spotted a fish farm and decided to give it a try. We'll be having fresh trout for dinner (still flopping out of there water pens) and we paid $1.75 a pound!!!!!

Down into a lush green valley and the up high again over another range, we stopped in a sweet, neat, and bustling mountain village to shop the producesrket for supplies. The looks a people's faces as Sura passes by are priceless. Dropped jaws and inquisitive stares often precede a hand wave and a smile.

So...our driver saw a side road on the map that might save us some time. He confirmed that the road would get us where we needed to be. The "road" soon became a less than one lane dirt track over a 6,090 ft pass. For those who went to Machu Pichu, think that ascent road, only steeper, narrower, and more interesting. This is Overlanding! Yahoo!

We stopped on grassy knoll overlooking a creek and had lunch-leftover Spaghetti Bolognese from last night. You can't go wrong with pasta two times in a row.!

Mountain roads and a late arrival found us in camp at the base of the Sumela Monastery. Grilled fish and lentil soup. Tom is cooking tonight!

In a northeastern direction

Packed up and on the road by 8:30am we headed north east toward the Black Sea. We're about halfway across Turkey now-it'll take three more days to reach Georgia. Our destination today is to wild camp near the town of Erzincan. For lunch we stopped at a closed cold spring resort and set up a picnic. It was really windy, there was still labor of snow. The sun was warm Zmd the winter park attendants were friendly and accommodating.

Another two hours east and we took a scenic byway to look for a wild campsite. There was a river through canyon we were traveling. We passed many grassy fields that I thought would be perfect. Then we came upon a one Kane dirt road that crossed a stone bridge. Dave turned the truck and we headed up the canyon walk switch backing to the top, barely enough room on each side to pass... And we kept going looking for the perfect spot. All I could think during our ascent was how my regular traveling friends would be reacting at that very moment. The photos don't lie! With no luck at to top, yikes, WE CAME BACK DOWN.

Back on the main road we drove higher up into the valley and closer to the SNOW covered slopes. Another side road proved narrow and with downed power lines crossing the road. Onward.

Eventually we came across a gravel pit and roadwork staging area. Off to the back there was a grassy area and some trees away from the road. Home for the night! We set up camp next to the rushing stream, lit a fire, and got real cosy.

Cappadocia -Day 2

Today was a full day tour to the underground city. We drove an hour to the site and the toured the first eight levels down to 125 feet. There are thirty levels more below. The site was 2,000 years old and a hideout for Hitites and Christians from marauding Hund, Romans, and other invaders. From there we visited the Ihlara Valley, Ainu Grand Canyon and the worlds second longest natural canyon. Descending 500 feet to the floor we followed a swiftly running river for about five miles. The rock formations and cave dwelling were stunning.

Lunch was included at a quaint restaurant alongside the river were I enjoyed fresh trout. Yum! Next up was the monastery at Semili, location for the original Star Wars Mewok Village. It was an arduous climb to view massive rooms carved out of solid rock. A drive back to Goreme ended out day. Tonight I have to scout for firewood and water (my assigned daily chore) before we head out tomorrow morning. We'll be bush camping for the next few days. Stay tuned and enjoy these photos.

Turkish Night

This evening we went to a tourist dinner show and had a great time watching traditional dancing, belly dancers, and whirling dervishes. Unlimited alcohol added to the festivities as one by one we were dragged into the "show" and embarrassed.

Cappadocia -Day 1

Slept in...ah-h-h! Great breakfast! I took off on a short hike through the rock formations with four of the others. The caves were really interesting. As we climbed over a ridge we'd see something in the distance and head for it. Each ridge offered a greater surprise. After two hours we were down to three. The hike got better and better, and longer and longer. Four hours in, Alex recommended we visit the Valley of Love-huge pillars of sandstone. Amazing. By the end of the last site we were six hours in and there was still 500m climb to the top of the ridge. Providence provided us with a guy and a private car for 20 lira back to the hotel. Tired, dehydrated, and ready for a beer and a nap, we met up with others and spent the next couple of hours recovering.

And it begins...

Last night we had a group dinner. We started with a few beers at the pub and then walked to the restaurant. We were a lively group sharing stories and getting to know each other. Our last two travelers showed up. Shawn is from New Zealand, a mining engineer, and the tattooed man. He was my roommate last night and just about every inch of his body, except his face, is inked. Alex is from Toronto. A fellow in his late 30's, right arm amputated at the shoulder, and an "X-treme" skier. We're quite a group and yours truly is the oldest...ugh! Oh, and we have a "Frenchy," our tour leader's nickname! Gotta have a Frenchy on every trip!

This morning's wakeup was at 4am with a 5:00 o'clock departure. We met "Sura," our truck, and she's a beauty. We got loaded up and on our way. Today will be a 12 hour drive. Sound familiar :-) Our destination is the town of Goreme in Cappadocia. We crossed Theron bridge to Asia Turkey and wound through the expanding city for quite sometime before reaching open land and heading due east.

Soon we reached a range of mountains and the east most region of the Anatolia inlet coming 100 miles in from the coast. Over the mountains we saw the last of the winter snow before winding down through fertile. Lush green canyons and into Ankara. Another two hours and we reached Lake Tuz, a huge shallow water salt lake with lesser flamingos. We set up our first lunch camp, learned about washing and treating produce, and then made our first lunch-a huge assortment of raw veggies and fresh bread. I offered to make a dressing combing tahini, pomegranate syrup, balsamic vinegar and black pepper. It was a hit and I was in my element.

Five more hours saw us through beautiful green fields to the twin of Goreme in the heart of Cappadocia. Our pension is located right inside of the amazing rock formations. A long day, dinner waiting and a good might's sleep is promised!

Shopping, a Scrub and a Rub

We had our group meeting on the terrace. There I met our other travelers. Four of us will be going the whole way. Joe, myself, a retired customs officer from London, a lady my age named Enid, and John, another Brit who was not yet ready to bear his soul. Another will go as far as Tashkent. She is a doctor, Kat (Katherine), who just finished her studies and is taking a year off to recover before starting her life's work. A young couple from Australia, Justin and M______ (name to be remembered later) will be with us for ten days only. The remaining two have not shown up. After going over the paperwork and such, it was a shopping day to collect stuff for the trip. Toilet paper, soap, and a good pillow.

Along the way I stopped in at a traditional Turkish bath for a foam massage, steam, and swim. Built in 1427, it was an experience I will remember for a long time to come. First came the disrobing and a small wraparound. Led to the toilet and then shower, I was shown the bath. Three large white marbled wet rooms, steam room, sauna, and cold plunge pool in a small cave. Google Gedikpasa Turkish Baths for photos. After a great steam and plunge I was scrubbed with a polyester Brillo pad from head to toe and all points in between. A hot water rinse followed by another scrubbing, this time with soap. The masseuse then directed me to lay on a warm marble slab where he proceeded to give me one hell of a 30 minute Shiatsu massage. Instead of oil he used soap foam. It was both unusual and amazing. Two rinses later I got a double shampoo and a scalp massage. More steam and another plunge ended my visit. I'm now sitting in a park under a beautiful grove of trees writing this entry. Finally I am beginning to relax and welcome the adventure. This morning at the request of our tour leader I surrendered my watch. That says a lot about what is to come.

Meeting some of the guys in Istanbul

This morning I had breakfast with Dave and Ivan and was joined by Joe, a fellow from Australia. He is a boilermaker in a coal mine in northeast Queensland. A nice fellow in his late 40's with a very unique beard. Together Joe and I explored a bit more of the old city visiting the Grand Bazaar. This is a huge complex of shops all under one roof. I estimated from the size of the facility that there must have been over 500 stores.

Next we entered a huge local mosque. Afterward we wandered the hardware
district ducking in and out of various stores looking at tools and such. Then it was on to the Egyptian Spice Market-nothing like a hardware and grocery store fix to make my day!

Down to the river we wandered around the myriad of boats before heading into the electronics district where I was able to replace the camera I lost the day before.

Back at the hostel a few beers was followed by a long nap and a nice dinner once again on the terrace overlooking the Bosphorus.

Free day in Istanbul

I woke to a bright and blue-skied day. The hostel I am staying at is beyond my expectations. Each room had three sets of bunks so with six it would be cosy. Fortunately I was alone last night and presumably tonight as well. The shared baths are sparkling clean with great hot water in the showers.

I went up to the terrace for breakfast and met Ivan (French) and Dave (Aussie) our tour manager and driver-very pleasant young fellows. They are enjoying a few days off before starting the our tour. I was pleased to learn we will be together to Beijing.

I went out for a walk through the city gardens. The tulips were in full bloom. From there I visited the three archeological museums near Topkapi Palace. The tomb of Alexander the Great was outstanding!

Afterward I strolled back to the hotel for a short rest before dinner on the terrace overlooking the Bosphorus.

Toronto to Frankfurt and on to Istanbul

A 90 minute delay in boarding came with benefits. The fellow from Edmonton with whom I had been chatting for the last hour had an early boarding pass and invited me to tag along. Oh my, just hit me, that was a deja vu moment! The flight was smooth and we landed just over an hour late. With minutes to spare I made my Istanbul flight; my luggage did not.

The silver lining is that they will have to deliver it to my hotel later today. That means I can now ride the subway without having to lug those 42 pounds along the way!

Newark to Toronto

An early arrival at the airport rewarded me with an upgraded standby seat on an earlier flight to Toronto. What a cool airport. Totally modern with technology all over the place. Several of the cafes have iPads at each seat to order and surf the net while you wait. What a cool way to avoid human interaction!

Twas the end of Passover and the airport was swarming with lots of Jewish families returning home...a sea of fur felt, wide brim hats and ladies in stylish wigs...and LOTS of kids.

My seven hour layover included a lot of people watching, the movie "Beginners," (rent it. Chris Plummer and Ewan McGregor are great), and a really good dirty martini...or three. Ask for Doug at the Bacardi Rum Bar!

A night in Newark, New Jersey

United's flights to Denver and then on to Newark were great. I got a free upgrade to Economy Plus (more leg room and a free drink) in exchange for trading seats with a large family.

I booked a cheap hotel in Newark and got exactly what I asked for...will not be placing any luggage on an upholstered surface tonight! The strip club next door served a good burger. Tomorrow is a long day as I hop around on Air Canada making my way to Istanbul.