Limping

We left the ger camp in route to a famous monastery.  During a river crossing the deep water broke the fan which in turn tore holes in the radiator.  The lads patched the holes with greased cotton from tampons and it held-but without the fan we could only drive a few miles before stopping to cool off.  Ten hours after leaving the camp we were only 10 KM out.  In the distance we could see  our ger camp from last night.  We were by a river, needed to refill out wash water cans, and decided to pitch camp.  We would be a full day behind again...yuk!

Sunshine and dry roads

We drove all day through the heart of valley.  The roof seats were great and the views amazing.  We passsed two prayer mounds drapped in ribbons.

 

Halfway through the day we encountered a charming little village with more horeses that people.  It has a great little monastery in the center of town.  

 We make it to our ger camp in time for lunch.  A short drvigin day with a nice reward.  The camp was nicely done, had great hot showers, and woul be a great rest.  Shortly after arriving there was a medical emergency with one of the camp staff and I was asked to help out.  I got to be camp dotor for a couple of hours.  The young lady was in a epeleptic aeizure and needed some calming down.  All ended wll and the patient prognosis is postivite.

Flaming Cliffs

The Flaming Cliffs of Bayanzag

We departed early again and headed for Bayanzag, more commonly known as the 'Flaming Cliffs.". This site is known worldwide for its huge find of dinosaur bones and eggs. The natural beauty of the surrounding landscape was a good reason to visit in it's own right. It's a classic desert of rock,  red sands and scrubs.  We had several hours of free time wandering the canyons.  I took a hike deep into the ravines and got some great photos.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Arvaikheer and into the Orkhen Valley

We left our bush camp and headed for the town of Arvaikheer for restocking. Thus largish town actually had s small regional airport!  We had lunch, shopped for groceries in the local market, purchased some horsemilk  cheese (will be an interesting lasagna tonight) and headed into the Orkhon Valley to find a bush camp.

 

 

 

 

For some of the best examples of Mongolia’s legendary historical sites, monuments and monasteries, as well as areas of breathtaking natural beauty, the Orkhon valley is a must see. The valley is the keeper of many religious and cultural antiquities; home to a number of sites that form a key part of Mongolia’s varied and fascinating history, and it was simply beautiful.  We'll be traveling through this type of terrain for the next several days.  the sunset and moonrise tonight were terrific.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sand dunes and camels

The Dunes of Khongoryn Els

Khongoryn Els are some of the largest and most spectacular sand dunes in Mongolia.Stretching for 185 kilometres the classic dunes of Khongorin Els sometimes called the singing dunes were our next destination. Reaching heights over 20 metres these are true giants.

We were all played out from the digging and getting stuck but as we approatched those dunes, they were singing. The wind makes a musical sound as it winds through the dunes.  We checked into our ger camp, had a nice supper, shower, and went to bed.

Up at 5 again and climbing dunes we returned to the camp for lunch and another  shower.  Then it was time for an one hour camel ride and a visit with a local herding family.

 

The drive this afternoon took us through stunning rock canyons and on to the red sand plains. Our bush camp was out in the open with majestic views of the mountains in the distance. The sunset was fantastic.

 

Out of the wet part we hope!

To make up for all the lost time yesterday we got up at 4:30am and we packed and rolling by 5. We got five miles and were once again stuck in the mud. Three hours later we were free and heading for a different access point to the pass that would take us to the dry part of the desert. 

Once again we came across a mud flat and this time decided to put on the chains. We also enlisted the aide if a local truck driver to stick around in case we needed a tow. This getting stuck stuff is getting tedious!

Two hours later we were ready to give it a try.  Stuck again. Digging, lugging tocks, and laying sand mats. Three hours layer we were back on the road and six hours behind. 

We reached the get camp outside of the singing dunes around 10pm. Dinner and hot showers were waiting. 

Change of plans

It rained all night-POURED-and everything was soaked by morning including the tracks.  The lads got up before 6am to change out the other set of springs-there was a crack in them ad well. The job took longer than expected. 

With the work completed we loaded up and set out through the mud-praying that we would not get stuck!  AND...it rained, and rained, and rained AND...the road was slick...and, oh yes, it was COLD!

We left the mountains heading for the plains and blue skies. The clouds began to clear and it warmed up...and then it happened. 

Three hours later, lots of digging, and the miracle of a passing truck in the middle of the Gobi who added pull to the dig-and we were out of the hole and back on the road.  We drive several more hours to catch up and camped along the road just before sunset. It was a LONG and TIDIOUS day!

Heading out to Yolyn Am (Vulture's Mouth)

JAnother full day over dry grasslands and mile upon mile of sand and scrub got us to Dalanzadgad, a largish town in the middle of the Gobi.  Nestled up against an impressive range of mountains this mining center town was alive with shops, cars, and people.  Here we restocked, bought some "fresh" camel meat and savored a bit of civilization. 

Here we also serviced the truck, and Jim, our driver, replaced the shocks on the front axle. Poor "Archie" had taken quite a beating on the rough roads over the past two months and this had to be done-one had cracked. 

By the time the shock was "repaired" the ice canyon at Yolyn Am was off schedule for the day so we headed out to the Ger camp for a good night sleep, meal, and first shower in days!

Further into the desert

Yes, this is in the Gobi Desert. I was surprised too!

We broke camp at 5:30 to start a long day-another 11 hours of dirt tracks. Fifteen minutes on the road found us stuck in a huge muddy puddle. An hour later and with the help of a passing dump truck we were pulled free. Seemed like a good time for breakfast and regrouping. 

We hit the tracks again heading even more south. Occasional grassland and grazing animals appeared as the July rains left their mark. In a few month it will all be dry sand and scrub once again. The crocus and wild iris were just beginning to bloom. Wow, not what I expected. 

We traveled eight more hours and set up camp. A good dinner and a warmer, drier, and quieter night followed. 

Into the Gobi Desert...again

Breaking camp early we headed back to Ulaanbaatar. We stocked up our bulk bins at our last chance at a real grocery store and restocked the BAR!  

With our stores aboard we said goodbye to the only big city in Mongolia and headed south. Just like in Alaska, 80% of the total population lives within 50 miles of their largest city. 

Today we would make it halfway to the heart of the Gobi.  Leaving UB we traveled once again over rolling grasslands and small mountain ranges before finding sand and scrub...and warmer temps. 

After eleven hours of driving muddy tracks we landed on a small well-drained slope on front of a huge advancing thunderstorm. Cook groups attempted to start dinner as we set up tents. And then the wind and rain came and we hunkered down in the truck to ride out the storm. Too many beers, wine, and vodka later the storm passed and the crews were back to work. 

It rained and blew all night and in the morning we were all pretty tired. 

Jerehj Nationsl Park

We had an absolutely beautiful day with a TEN mile hike from camp to the monastary and back. The scenery was...well look at the photos...and the weather held until late in the day when we had showers for a short time. 

We enjoyed a pasta and FABULOUS sauce dinner with fresh salad-guess who led the cook team!  It was cold again with temps dropping below 50. 

Up early tomorrow and a long drive into the heart of the Gobi. 

You'll have to wait till I get back to see the pornographic drawings on the monastery temples beams. Hysterical!

And we're off........

Early, raining, and with a full load (every seat sold), we set off. Gino, our leader, gave the introduction to Archie, our truck,    as we headed to the markets for shopping. 

With cook teams assigned we descended on the local supermarket, one of the few in town open. The holiday is still in full force!  By now it was really raining and we were all soaked!

We drove northeast toward the national park and visited the newly completed Ghangis Khan statue-a 131 ft tall stainless steel colossus standing on the presumed birthplace of the Mongol leader who conquered nearly half of the known world at the time. 

After lunch we headed to Terejli National Park where we camped. The surrounding mountains and pastoral landscape were beautiful as were the clear blue skies that appeared late in the day and into the night. It was horse meat stew for dinner, done in the pressure cooker and delicious.  We will be here for two days. 

This picture is of the Mongolian highway. They make their own tracks up and over the mountains. Hysterical...and muddy!