And then it snowed

We went to bed with flurries and woke to a nice cover of snow. Our driver was concerned about the condition of the upper road so after packing up "Ursula" we were asked to walk down the first 3 miles of road to below the snow line. There we safely boarded the ATV and drove back to Kara-kol.

Once in town we unloaded Ursula and repacked Sura. A shopping trip to the local market allowed us to graze on our own for lunch. Different noodle bars, each with their own secret sauce were delicious. The shumsha (pastry filled with meat or veggies) was great, and the BBQd beef and lamb were very good. We restocked the bar with a variety of vodkas.

We left town for a short drive to the Jeti Orghuz Valley where we will spent two nights. Entering the valley the red cliffs and sculpted sandstone mountains were amazing (I know, I use this word a lot) and there we were soon deep into the spruce and cedar forest. We found a campsite next to another rushing stream and set up camp. Cabbage rolls, mashed pots, and tomato salad for dinner. Yippee. (I know, I use that one a lot as well) :-). :-)

Check out the horses among the tents!

A lazy day in the alpine valley

I got up early to do my breakfast and lunch chores. We made lunch early so that the hikers could pack a lunch. Almost everyone went out today. There were several day hike choices. I chose to stay and enjoy the quiet. I went back to bed for an hour. It was nice to have the whole place to myself. Mid morning I enjoyed a long hot soak in one of the pools with an Aussie lass. It was fun to listen to her marvel at the mountains and trees-something she had never seen before. There were three left in camp. We shared lunch and then were just lazy. It's been along time since I have enjoyed being mostly by myself.

Tonight was crazy hat night. The assignment was to make a hat from found objects. Dave and Frenchy cooked dinner. First course was a local delicacy-oh god, I'm afraid to put this into the blog-it was a boiled horse penis. I DID NOT try it! Although our guide swore by it and a few did indulge with positive comment. Gotta love local custom.

Second course was a horse meat stew and an aubergine casserole. REALLY YUMMIE! Somehow the lads also found a pork sausage-sorta contraband in these parts.

During dinner it started to snow. The Aussies got pretty excited. Little do they know! Tomorrows descent back to Kara-kol may be a bit tricky! Yikes!!!!

Finally!

ATM success! Three weeks of limping is over. Finally found an ATM with USD. I got enough to pay back all of my personal loans and cover me well past the China border.

You can all stop worrying about me now. I may even buy a nice WARM sweater to celebrate!

To Altyn Arasan

Our day started with breakfast and a quick shopping trip to the market due to an adjustment in our plan. Snow and below freezing temps have caused another itinerary adjustment. Instead of heading south to Zety Oghuz and forest hiking, we will go north into the mountains and a hot spring resort. Heated dorms await our arrival.

But first we have to change vehicles. The road is "interesting" and only four wheel drive vehicles can make the pass. So...our guide arranged for us to use an army transport vehicle. Right out of post WWII Russia comes "Ursula." It took about
45 minutes to transfer our camping gear, food, and luggage. Then we all packed in, and headed out. Really exciting stuff.

It became immediately apparent why we were using the ATV. The mountain road was barely wide enough for the truck, dirt and mud, and full of boulders. We rocked and rolled for three hours up another 4,500 ft to an amazing alpine meadow above the evergreen treeline. Our accommodations for the next two nights and days are dorms in a mountain cabin. There are four hot spring pools just below the cabin each with temps varying from 94 to 105. Just like home. This is heaven!

Higher and even more majestic

A bright morning sun greeted us at 4:30 am shining down in between the canyon walls. The rushing river beside our campsite was a constant lullaby all night and everyone claimed an amazing restful night.

We breakfasted early and then climbed one of the canyon walks for views of the valley and gorge below.

Leaving mid morning we ascended higher into a valley full of high meadows and nomadic families migrating to summer grazing land. We stopped and purchased fermented horse milk to drink later. It was interesting watching a mare being milked. A first for me. The inside of the yurt was full of colorful weavings and a dozen small children.

We made the 10,400 summit around noon and stopped for pictures and snow for the coolers. The air was exhilarating and the altitude just "high" enough! These mountains are 17,000 to 25,000 ft tall.

We traversed a high alpine meadow for a couple of hours stopping often for photos. Along the way we purchased cheese balls made from, yep you guessed it...horse milk. Sharp and tangy with a curios undefinable taste. REALLY good. Best eaten with a beer and fresh Krygi bread.

Once again at the next summit we turned east toward the town of Aral and 100 km of dirt and gravel...yippee...Davey's favorite type road. We stopped next to a stream for lunch and then opened the roof seats for the rest of the drive.

The often one lane road ahead of us gave is a few challenges, especially sitting on the roof. We found a wonderful bush camp next to the river and below a scarlet and orange cliff. Complete with our own beach we settled in for a two night stay in paradise.

From mountain village into paradise

Last night's grouchiness was relieved by a good (albeit cold) sleep and breakfast by our host family. We woke to see ourselves surrounded my 10,000 ft snow-capped mountains and blue skies. As the lads readied the truck we wandered down through the village chatting with children and adults alike. We then drove to the town well below on the valley floor where we shopped the local market for the next four days supplies.

Fully stocked we headed west acros the Kyrgh Fergana valley and then north into the wilderness. Before reaching the foothills there was a long stretch of highway that we learned was the international border. No fences, markets or guards-just farmland on both sides of the road. And to think that just two years ago Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan were at war. Odd indeed! Photo shows the road as the border.

Reaching the foothills we found landscape that reminded me of the badlands of South Dakota. A magnificent maade lake and flooded river gorge with emerald green water greeted us. It was so invitong we decided to picnic on its shore and have a swim.

Our drive continued through one magnificent valley after another. We wound around colored cliffs of ocher, sienna, and verde (thats French); backdropped by massive snowcapped mountains. We were mesmerized by the stark beauty of the landscape.

We stopped alongside the road and bought some wildflower stalks. The flowers had not yet bloomed but the stalk looked a bit like rhubarb or water hyacinth and when peeled tasted like tart green apples. Yum!

We eventually traced the shoreline of the second largest reservoir in the world before climbing into a crayon gorge and our campsite for the night. Life is sublime!

Asalama ellekum Kyrgyzstan

With unbelievable charm and speed we were processed (in almost disbelief) out of Uzbekistan and into Kyrgyzstan. The Kyrgh was faster than the USA. They must really want us here. Even Sura got through in reasonable speed and with a bit of negotiating, the entry fees were reduced.

We met our local guide Erkin, pleasant and well spoken. I changed my last US dollars into the local currency. Yikes! Erkin promised that we would have no trouble at an ATM once we got to one in four days. In the meantime it is crackers and vodka.

Kyrgyzstan is the least visited country in the world. It's 5 million people are mostly nomadic. It is a country of high high mountains, forests and lakes. It is also home to the highest concentration of snow leopards in the world...fancy that! It's wealth lies in gold, water (that they sell to Uzbekistan) and natural wonders. For the next 15 days we will be camping, staying in yurts, hiking, rafting, horseback-riding and experiencing an amazing culture. A shower is assumed once every four days or so! :-)

Our drive from the border was pleasant with grand views of the snow capped mountains we would encounter tomorrow. The green rolling foothills were lush with grass and crops. The sunset was spectacular. We reached our homestay at midnight. It seems we have another local guide that misrepresents time and distance...and did not know where we were going. We were split up into three different private homes and served a lovely dinner. We are at 5,000 ft and it is rather cool. Tomorrow is an early morning hike before breakfast.

Adios Uzbekistan

Thanks to Dave and an extra $1,000 USD, Frenchy and Sura were released from no man's land and back in country after midnight. Ah, the power of the bribe!

We stopped at a handmade silk factory before leaving town. It was quite interesting and the prices were exceptional. However since I haven't been able to access my cash, no one gets a nice silk scarf. :-( , the purple ones were really pretty!

We headed for the Kyrgyzstan border excited to be leaving Uzbek and entering a new land. Before crossing and maybe standing in line for several hours, we stopped for a quick lunch of dolma and lagman. This was also a great way to get rid of the few soms left. Any cash leftover from lunch was put into a mutual kitty and we purchased a few bottles of vodka for the campfire tonight! Can't take the money across the border and its no good outside of Uzbekistan.

Update: When everyone was done filling the hat with their left over soms we had enough for eight bottles vodka ($2.80 eac) and 20+ liter bottles of beer ($1.20 each). The campfire will be raging well over the next seven days.