Prowling the big city

We slept in and began our wandering by walking a few miles to the nearest metro station. The system was built in the 70s during the Soviet Union occupation and each station was uniquely designed with chandeliers, arches, exotic tiles, etc. no photos were alloeed and security was high. Google "Tashkent Metro" to see pictures.

We went to the north of the city and toured the Chorba market, a huge open air market of everything. We ignored the the no photo signs and got a few good shots of people and interesting foods.

Next we walked another 100 miles to a mosque and mausoleum from the 15th century. Guess we are jaded by now because we all thought the tiles are just so-so :-).

We then jumped on the train again and headed for independence square where once again all the banks and hotel ATMs were out of cash. The wallets are getting thin since none of us have been able to access cash for almost two weeks!

We stopped for a "gambuger" and a Uzbeki burrito. Walked around the square taking forbidden photos of government buildings and then walked back to the hotel. Six hours of walking. Exhausted!

The Count

So.....we did a survey if all our family members on the truck. Collectively we have visited 180 different countries...and we aren't done with the tally. Pretty darn cool.

Onward to Tashkent

An early start took us through more fertile agricultural plains. It was a bit cooler today and everyone was excited to get back on the road.

The wind had picked up and the sky was full of dust. It was apparent that this was a consistently windy area by the permanent slant of the trees. We crossed siSeveral small mountain ranges. On the higher meadows honey vendors lined the roadside, each with their stands of quart and gallon jugs of gold...and an abandoned car used for shelter. Amusing!

If you look at a map you'll see that the main highway between Samarkand and Tashkent crosses over a small top of Kazakhstan. We were getting a not concerned ad we got closer knowing none of us had visas. Apparently the two countries did z little land exchange a whole back. As z result we had to do a detour from the main road around the new international border. Just odd!

About three hours out we stopped for lunch at a really nice truck stop serving tasty Lagman and grilled chicken with drinks worked out to about $2.45 per person!

We arrived in the capitol city around 4pm and checked into our hotel. A cold beer and some down time was followed by a group meal. Good to be in a city with an ATM. Only thing left to be seen is if it works!

On the road to Samarkand

Another campfire beer bust had most of us pretty lit so the late morning in the yurt camp was welcomed. We went to the lake once again for another swim and then back to camp for a fried fish lunch.

We were on the road by 1pm and heading to Samarkand. The drive was hot. We mostly napped, and we arrived at dusk. The hotel is top drawer and a welcome to a long day on the road. We'll be here for three days. Tonight it's burgers and fries. Yippee!

Poppies!

Fields of flowers for miles and miles. Amazing color and magic in the desert!

Nurata

We had an early start heading east from Bukhara. We were gifted with bright blue skies and a cool breeze as we once again ventured into the Kyzylkhum desert (alias, irrigated and fertile farmland).

Wheat fields became foothills of scrub and rock as we neared the mountains. Climbing higher scrub turned to multicolored grasses and red poppies. The Nurata mountains now in full view.

Our destination today was Nurata, home to the Nurata mountains and famous for it's old circle patterned Suzani (embroidery) which sell for thousands at auctions.

Dating back to The Bronze Age we discovered a town full of tenth century mosques and the place where the Chashma Springs are formed.

We arrived in Nurata andase lunch below the mosque, spring, and fortress of Alexander the Great. Another two hours into the dunes found is at our yurt camp. We unloaded and headed to the lake for a "Frenchy" dip. It was amazingly cool and the swim was grand!

We enjoyed a traditional dinner in the yurts and a small concert by a local musician. A small kitty joined us for dessert.

Free day in Samarkand

Jane and Louise, the Aussie gals, and Constanze, our Duetch comrade, joined John and I fit a freelance walking tour of the parks, fountains and monuments. We traversed some of yesterday's familiar territory and then wandered through the old Jewish quarter admiring the urban architecture and chatting with the locals. We stopped by the marketplace once again and had lunch.

Instead is taking a taxi back to the hotel we hopped on a local bus with maps in hand. We learned quickly that locals and bus drivers alike don't read maps. We soon nouns ourselves leaving the city. We stopped the bus and tried to hail a can. A local fellow in a VERY SMALL car pulled over and offered us a ride. The five of us were crammed in and taken to our hotel. A nice fellow that helped us out in a jam...for 25,000 soms of course!

We rested and waited for the heat of the day to disappear. Around five we ventured once again onto a city bus, this time with better information. We got off in the old city and wandered the neighborhood chatting with folks sitting in front of their homes. We played "help" with the kids and had a load of laughs. It's amazing how much of a conversation one can actually have without speaking the language. We would simply start off with a "Salam ellekum" (god be with you) and then the graceful hand over the heart and a warm smile. Ten minutes later we would know names, family members, heritage. A cup of tea or a cookie would shared.

Later we taxied to the Russian quarter and sought out a local restaurant for rotisserie chicken and beer. It was very nice.

Meat, meat, meat and a Bloody Mary chaser

We ventured out, just nine of us and found a small local restaurant full of "locals." The meat counter was not refrigerated but we figured since it was going to be sacrificed over a coal fire...well, the meat was AMAZING, just like everything else in Samarkand. The salads were yummy.

The highlight of the evening was teaching the nice Muslim waiter how to make Bloody Mary shots using the chili sauce for the shish kabobs.

Post loge: We all chipped in, rather spontaneously I might add, and paid for the lads dinner. It ended in some heartfelt thanks from some very lovely, actually sincerely lovely fellows. What a grand night.

Sultanate of Timur!

In the 14th century the city of Samarkand was the capital of the great sultanate of Timur. Thanks to it's cemtral location along the Silk Route, it is a melting pot of different cultures and traditions whose influences are still very much apparent today. Samarkand is perhaps the most romantic and evocative of the Silk Road cities, and crowned by the decorative domes and minarets of the many beautiful buildings here it certainly looks the part. Today our must-see's included Registan Square, which feels like the centre-point of the city, home to a group of impressively decorated Madressas, Guri Amir and the Shah-i-Zinda mausoleum.

We toured for hours. Ihlkum was impressively knowledgeable of the sites and we learned a lot. The tiles are unbelievable! We started off early, enjoyed a break during the heat of the day and picked up again late afternoon and onto the evening.

For lunch we ate at a local tea house in the market and then people watched for a couple of hours. Life is grand...and as Auntie Mame used to say, "life's a banquet and most poor bastards seldom get to the table." Sure glad I found the restaurant!