Mud Volcanoes, sorta...

We left the petroglyphs and drove further into the park. Along the way we stopped for bread at a local market. Of course there was a perfectly fine and paved road to the next site-but the lads chose the dirt and mud one instead; the guide at the park said it was a shortcut. Then came the mud and the washed out road. Oh, and it started to rain. Ah, "overlanding!" Gotta love it!

"Stuck" preceded an hour of mud grates, digging out (success), and then backing up most of the 10 km we had just covered. We could see were we had intended to go...so close and yet so far!

A quick stop for lunch and a check of the weather nixed our tour of the mud volcanoes for today. It was off to Baku and the hotel to scrap off the mud and take a bath. We decided to look into a day trip from Baku to see the volcanoes during the next two free days.

And now on to the park...

A grand breakfast of omelets and potato pancakes started our day. We left the pasture as we found it, cow pies and all.

Ah-h-h, smooth roads and a four lane highway...finally! Two hours of driving got us to the national park. Still overcast, it was a bit warmer and we were ready to see some really cool stuff.

Gobustan is famous for the massive amount of discovered prehistoric petroglyphs. Many date back to 70,000 BC. We toured the site with a private guide for an hour, entering caves, and marveling at the unique and exquisite carvings.

To Gobustan National Park

Up early and on the road before breakfast, we had a rough ten hours of driving over REALLY bumpy and frost-heaved roads. We stopped to shop for the next two days and then made a quick breakfast alongside the "road."

We continued to descend in altitude as we headed for the coast of the Caspian Sea. The terrain changed dramatically from high boreal forest to rolling grassland punctuated with farms; the Caucasus mountains all the while to the north.

Cloudy with scattered showers started our day and continued well into the afternoon. We stopped for lunch in a small village, taking a chance with a local cafe. The soup was delicious, as was the BBQ lamb. We purchased meat for dinner from the local butcher. He had two more lambs in the trailer waiting their turn.

Back on the road we continued east following the ridge line of the mountains. We got lost twice, stopped to ask for directions, and still couldn't find the right road. The ride today was a killer-possibly the worst yet with endless potholes and uneven payment. All of us were exhausted from being tossed around. Taking off our seatbelts actually helped...if that makes any sense. Being strapped in and thrown around hurt as the belt cut into our waists and shoulders.

After ten hours we had traveled about 150 miles with another 60+ to go. It was late so we opted to pull over and wild camp instead of pressing on to our original destination. It was cute watching the lads try to ask if we could camp in a farmer's field using sign language and a brochure showing tents. No luck. We moved on and checked out a vacant restaurant along side the highway-not far enough from the road to be safe. Next up was a pasture some distance from the highway. There was no one home in the farmhouse so the lads headed out across the pasture were some shepards were tending their flocks.

They said we were fine and later the "land baron" showed up with his approval. We shared some vodka with him and his two daughters each got one of the moose lapel pins. We had a nice evening and a great meal. The camp for tonight was in a pasture surrounded by sleeping cows, sheep, goats, and buffalo. Perfect after a long day on the road. The land owner joined us for another vodka and gave us some cheese. It was great fun.

The Shah's Palace

Built in 1748 by a Persian shah, this palace is right above our caravan hotel. The painted walls and the stained glass windows were amazing and roughly 90% original. Stunning!

Caravan-Suray

Well.....shazaam! This place is right out of the Silk Road storybooks. Original down to the square nailheads. The lower floors were for animals and servants, the upper floors for the traders and travelers. We have suited Zmd they are sweet. Still trying to figure out when the "budget" part of this trip begins....grin!

Azerbaijan

We slept in and rise to another breakfast forgot royalty. The ladies of the house it seems, were intent on cooking every dish they knew and st the end there was SO MUCH food left over! They were so sweet and accommodating and their home was quite lovely.

The border was five minutes away and Sasa sped up the process a bit by getting us to the head of the line. We were amused by the sign telling us "good luck" as we headed for customs. We walked through both Georgian and Azer immigration without issue and then waited a good long time as the truck went through two inspections and had to go back for yet one more stamp. And then, again to pay a road tax and more insurance. PS: the wine made it through!

As we drove through the huge valley with the Greater Caucasus to the north and the Lesser Caucasus to the south we passed one small town after another, continually descending in altitude. Still overcast and drizzling, there began to be signs of it warming up.

Just part the border it still looked much like Georgia with a few churches and the typical houses. Fifty kilometers on though, mosques began to pop up and public buildings and schools were more modern or new. This is a secular country and so far noticeably "western." The Azeri economy is much stronger and that was evident in the infrastructure.

We stopped for lunch in a meadow/local dump and fixed an awesome pasta salad! A bit in the vine in our glasses and we we on the road again for another three hours reaching Sheki and our Caravan-Suray (Silk Road Roadhouse) for the night.

Gremi and Lagpdekhi

Another COLD but leisure morning was followed a visit to the local market for lunch supplies. Our journey today was only 90 KM with a stop to visit the fortress and church at Gremi. It was built in 1360 AD and was the seat of local government until the late 19th century. The frescos in the church were magnificent.

We stopped lunch at a hillside turnout overlooking the valley and then continued to Lagpdekhi were we will stay the on preparation for our border crossing into Azerbaijan in the morning. We are ten miles from the Russian border and four miles from the Azer border. Three languages are spoken in this village. Interesting!

An amazing family experience

We traveled to a small family vineyard where we met the owner, his mother snd wife. We were shown the underground fermenting vats and presses. Then came the tasting of three different wines. They offered us homemade cheeses and bread and we toasted each other again and again. Tastings consisted of full glasses each time and then more if we wanted...as much more as we wanted.

Rico, the vintner, then started a small bonfire and roasted hunks if fresh pork on spits. What followed was food orgy of the family's favorite dishes, salads, cheese, and breads. More toasts and more wine...and then the homemade cha-cha. Needless to say we had an awesome time and walked away with rosary cheeks, full bellies, and warmed hearts. This was not a commercial winery. This was a local family inviting us into their home, and they did agree to sell us adore jugs of wine which we "hope" will carry us through to Ashgabat.

If that wasn't enough we then drove a formal winery on the estate if an 1800s nobleman. We toured the mansion, then did dime tastings. In the end we purchased a couple of really nice reds.

On the way back to the homestay we stopped at a local firehouse as a surprise for Enid. It was her birthday and she "loves" firemen! Back at the house we gave her a surprise party complete with balloons and cake! What fun!

Shaumta Monastary

We woke to a few inches of fresh snow and a really cold morning. Seeing us shivering at the breakfast table, Sasa decided to press the innkeeper to turn on the hidden furnace...ah, there actually IS one after all.

We transferred to a private bus for today's tour and drove a short way out of town. The Monastary is run and maintained strictly by women and had some really nice frescos. There was a couple if inches of snow which prompted a snowball fight!