An amazing family experience

We traveled to a small family vineyard where we met the owner, his mother snd wife. We were shown the underground fermenting vats and presses. Then came the tasting of three different wines. They offered us homemade cheeses and bread and we toasted each other again and again. Tastings consisted of full glasses each time and then more if we wanted...as much more as we wanted.

Rico, the vintner, then started a small bonfire and roasted hunks if fresh pork on spits. What followed was food orgy of the family's favorite dishes, salads, cheese, and breads. More toasts and more wine...and then the homemade cha-cha. Needless to say we had an awesome time and walked away with rosary cheeks, full bellies, and warmed hearts. This was not a commercial winery. This was a local family inviting us into their home, and they did agree to sell us adore jugs of wine which we "hope" will carry us through to Ashgabat.

If that wasn't enough we then drove a formal winery on the estate if an 1800s nobleman. We toured the mansion, then did dime tastings. In the end we purchased a couple of really nice reds.

On the way back to the homestay we stopped at a local firehouse as a surprise for Enid. It was her birthday and she "loves" firemen! Back at the house we gave her a surprise party complete with balloons and cake! What fun!

Shaumta Monastary

We woke to a few inches of fresh snow and a really cold morning. Seeing us shivering at the breakfast table, Sasa decided to press the innkeeper to turn on the hidden furnace...ah, there actually IS one after all.

We transferred to a private bus for today's tour and drove a short way out of town. The Monastary is run and maintained strictly by women and had some really nice frescos. There was a couple if inches of snow which prompted a snowball fight!

Burr-r-r-r

Ah, nothing like WET cold rain! We're at 3,000 feet and it's cold AND raining. This lovely homestay is also NOT heated! So we've dug out out sleeping bags and woollies for a cold night indoors! Gotta love overlanding. Ha-ha.

A free morning and departure to Telavi

A long lazy morning and a short visit to the Georgian State Museum rewarded us by viewing gold and silver finds from 2000BC grave sites, an exposition of the Russian occupation and holocaust 1921-1991, and a unique collection of Persian and Tibetan art. Sorry no photos.

We loaded up Sura, were joined by our new family member, Val from Roma (photo below) and departed for the wine country and the town of Telavi. All of us have now had a cold, some worse than others...and a few have had "revenge of the road." For once I have only had the sore throat thing. I have been VERY careful about what goes in so I am not inconvenienced by what comes out!

The highway out of town carried a familiar name, "the George W. Bush Highway." OMG! I wonder what we invested in to have this "honor"?

We drove into the hills. It was a cloudy and cool day. The hills were green and the fruit and nut trees covered in blossoms. The road varied from pavement to gravel and dirt and it took about three hours to reach our destination.

The small village of Telavi, on the Lesser Caucasus foothills welcomed us with a brisk temperature. Our rooms tonight are on a large family home with charming carved wood stairs and antiques. Laundry facilities were arranged and we settled in for a relaxing evening and a home cooked meal.

Falling in love with Tblisi

Got in late afternoon and settled into a REALLY nice hotel. I got a king bed room all to myself. We went out for dinner in a cellar restaurant and enjoyed another Georgian banquet and entertainment. Great fun!

A lazy and late morning was followed by a grand walking tour of the old city. Hammans, churches, castles, amazing views, and some wild modern architecture. This is a happening town. We toured some of the old quarter as well with grand old stained glass windows and finely detailed carved wooden screens. The city is alive with sounds and color.

We stopped for lunch before breaking up and wandering around on our own. We discovered a flea market of art, Russian military memorabilia, and art. That kept us busy for a couple of hours and I found a couple cool items. Next I went in search if a good pillow-it's gonna be a long 110 more days without one. Tonight will be Italian night and we are in search of pasta!

Dumplings!

Back in the village we visited a private home for a cooking class. Lelia and her mother taught us how to make both meat and potato dumplings.

A simple dough of flour, water, shortening and salt was rolled and cut into circles. Then each circle was rolled out again and filled. The meat was a combination of pork, beef, onion, sage, and rosemary. Boiled potatoes and cheese filled others.

The dough with filling was then pleated and pinched to form round and crescent shapes. Boiled in salted water, it was served with VODKA and several toasts. It was a very fun event!

A drive back over the summit, once again through the narrow tunnels and muddy potholes. and then down into the plains found us in Tblisi, the Georgian capitol, by sunset.

Tonight we say goodbye to Justin and Clyttie, who travel back to Australia, and meet our new family member, Valeria.

Holy Trinity Church - a hike to the top of the mountain

This morning most everyone in the group is sniffling and sneezing and a cold has spread quickly. Cold tablets came out in scores. Our early day started with another terrific Georgian breakfast and then departure by 4x4s to the trailhead, some 2000 feet above the valley floor. From there it was a hike up another 1500 feet to the top of the mountain and the famous church. Gergiti Holy Trinity is one of Georgia's most visited sites, a pilgrimage for the faithful and a destination for tourists all over the world. Perched high above the valley floor the views were commanding. The location was chosen by its builders for privacy and security and it has survived many wars and invasions.

The current church was built in the 1600s however the site had been established centuries earlier. We toured the site for an hour before heading back down the mountain and on to our next activity. .