Out of the wet part we hope!

To make up for all the lost time yesterday we got up at 4:30am and we packed and rolling by 5. We got five miles and were once again stuck in the mud. Three hours later we were free and heading for a different access point to the pass that would take us to the dry part of the desert. 

Once again we came across a mud flat and this time decided to put on the chains. We also enlisted the aide if a local truck driver to stick around in case we needed a tow. This getting stuck stuff is getting tedious!

Two hours later we were ready to give it a try.  Stuck again. Digging, lugging tocks, and laying sand mats. Three hours layer we were back on the road and six hours behind. 

We reached the get camp outside of the singing dunes around 10pm. Dinner and hot showers were waiting. 

Change of plans

It rained all night-POURED-and everything was soaked by morning including the tracks.  The lads got up before 6am to change out the other set of springs-there was a crack in them ad well. The job took longer than expected. 

With the work completed we loaded up and set out through the mud-praying that we would not get stuck!  AND...it rained, and rained, and rained AND...the road was slick...and, oh yes, it was COLD!

We left the mountains heading for the plains and blue skies. The clouds began to clear and it warmed up...and then it happened. 

Three hours later, lots of digging, and the miracle of a passing truck in the middle of the Gobi who added pull to the dig-and we were out of the hole and back on the road.  We drive several more hours to catch up and camped along the road just before sunset. It was a LONG and TIDIOUS day!

Heading out to Yolyn Am (Vulture's Mouth)

JAnother full day over dry grasslands and mile upon mile of sand and scrub got us to Dalanzadgad, a largish town in the middle of the Gobi.  Nestled up against an impressive range of mountains this mining center town was alive with shops, cars, and people.  Here we restocked, bought some "fresh" camel meat and savored a bit of civilization. 

Here we also serviced the truck, and Jim, our driver, replaced the shocks on the front axle. Poor "Archie" had taken quite a beating on the rough roads over the past two months and this had to be done-one had cracked. 

By the time the shock was "repaired" the ice canyon at Yolyn Am was off schedule for the day so we headed out to the Ger camp for a good night sleep, meal, and first shower in days!

Further into the desert

Yes, this is in the Gobi Desert. I was surprised too!

We broke camp at 5:30 to start a long day-another 11 hours of dirt tracks. Fifteen minutes on the road found us stuck in a huge muddy puddle. An hour later and with the help of a passing dump truck we were pulled free. Seemed like a good time for breakfast and regrouping. 

We hit the tracks again heading even more south. Occasional grassland and grazing animals appeared as the July rains left their mark. In a few month it will all be dry sand and scrub once again. The crocus and wild iris were just beginning to bloom. Wow, not what I expected. 

We traveled eight more hours and set up camp. A good dinner and a warmer, drier, and quieter night followed. 

Into the Gobi Desert...again

Breaking camp early we headed back to Ulaanbaatar. We stocked up our bulk bins at our last chance at a real grocery store and restocked the BAR!  

With our stores aboard we said goodbye to the only big city in Mongolia and headed south. Just like in Alaska, 80% of the total population lives within 50 miles of their largest city. 

Today we would make it halfway to the heart of the Gobi.  Leaving UB we traveled once again over rolling grasslands and small mountain ranges before finding sand and scrub...and warmer temps. 

After eleven hours of driving muddy tracks we landed on a small well-drained slope on front of a huge advancing thunderstorm. Cook groups attempted to start dinner as we set up tents. And then the wind and rain came and we hunkered down in the truck to ride out the storm. Too many beers, wine, and vodka later the storm passed and the crews were back to work. 

It rained and blew all night and in the morning we were all pretty tired. 

Jerehj Nationsl Park

We had an absolutely beautiful day with a TEN mile hike from camp to the monastary and back. The scenery was...well look at the photos...and the weather held until late in the day when we had showers for a short time. 

We enjoyed a pasta and FABULOUS sauce dinner with fresh salad-guess who led the cook team!  It was cold again with temps dropping below 50. 

Up early tomorrow and a long drive into the heart of the Gobi. 

You'll have to wait till I get back to see the pornographic drawings on the monastery temples beams. Hysterical!

And we're off........

Early, raining, and with a full load (every seat sold), we set off. Gino, our leader, gave the introduction to Archie, our truck,    as we headed to the markets for shopping. 

With cook teams assigned we descended on the local supermarket, one of the few in town open. The holiday is still in full force!  By now it was really raining and we were all soaked!

We drove northeast toward the national park and visited the newly completed Ghangis Khan statue-a 131 ft tall stainless steel colossus standing on the presumed birthplace of the Mongol leader who conquered nearly half of the known world at the time. 

After lunch we headed to Terejli National Park where we camped. The surrounding mountains and pastoral landscape were beautiful as were the clear blue skies that appeared late in the day and into the night. It was horse meat stew for dinner, done in the pressure cooker and delicious.  We will be here for two days. 

This picture is of the Mongolian highway. They make their own tracks up and over the mountains. Hysterical...and muddy!

Free Day

My free day consisted of walking around the city center and watching them set up for the big celebration tonight.

Into the Gobi Desert

We depart today on our 18 day tour of the desert and as such will have no Wifi until returning to Ulaanbaatar on July 30. 

So mark your calendars to check the blog at the end of the month as I finish this amazing four month odyssey.

Thanks for being part oft journey!

Naadam

Today we visited the typical celebration sites and watched horse racing, wrestling, and archery. It was hot and dusty and a lit of fun. I kept thinking I was in Alaska at a native federation celebration.  Tomorrow we head out into the Gobi. 

Off to Mongolia

Our "boys night out" dinner was posh, the best restaurant in town, and a real treat. John and I joined forces to treat the crew to a special night. The four of us polished off a couple dozen sea scallops, goose pâté, four fillet mignon, a whole Peking duck, cocktails before, three bottles of wine during, and sorbet, leche, cognac and coffee after. The final tab was $750 USD and worth every penny!

I was up at 5:00am, out of the hotel, taxied, and in the train station at 6.  John got up early to say goodbye once more. I was surprised and pleased to see him at the front door of the hotel. He flies back to London later today.

The station was quiet and security was quick. Once I am in Ulaanbaatar it will be great to not lug these bags around again until I head home in three weeks.  The black one had all the stuff I could never get sent. It will stay at the hotel while I am on tour.

Peddling around Beijing

We woke to pouring rain. Ahhhhh!  Rented bikes from the hotel for $1.25 for the day!  Set out with a street map wrapped in plastic. It was a hoot. We covered most of the city within the ring road. Traffic was calm and dodging in between cars, trucks, and other bi-peds was interesting. We were drenched.

The modern parts were cool with outrageous architecture. The alleys of the old city were jammed with tourist and umbrellas.

We drove through Tianamen square once again. Still busy even with the rain.

We were back at the hotel after about five hours, had lunch, and a grand nap. Tonight is boys night. John and I are treating the lads to a real steak dinner and great bottle(s) of wine.

Then it is up early and off to the train station for Mongolia. Sorry, no photos due to the rain. Cameras and water do not mix.

Sent from Leopard's iPhone. Read my blog at www.leopard2013.blogspot.com

The Forbidden City, etc.

We began our day with a city bus ride to Tianemen Square and Mao's tomb.  The crowds were intense and spectacular, thousands of Chinese standing in the hot, hot sun for HOURS to see the embalmed remains of their illustrious leader. He died in 1978.

After maneuvering the crowd, we finally got to the entrance gate of the Imperial City. The architecture was superb Z's were the amazing crowds. It was so hot that any shady spot was filled to capacity. Vendors selling frozen bottles of water were everywhere! 

With audio guides around our necks we split up and toured the site.  Three hours in I had had enough history, noise, and claustrophobia was settling in. I headed for the west gate, exit, and a cold beer. 

I met up with the gang at the gate and together we spent the rest of the day wandering the city back to the hotel, pub hopping looking for air conditioning, cold drinks and a little lunch :-)

Oh, and then there was the live viper cooked to perfection in a delectable ginger and onion sauce. Yikes!

Sent from Leopard's iPhone. Read my blog at www.leopard2013.blogspot.com