From the Mediterranean Sea to the Pacific Ocean, this is my first "round-the-world" tour and the first time I am traveling alone. It's also the first time I am NOT the leader of the group. This will be a huge adventure for me, one that tests my patience (smile), stamina and my ability to adapt. I can't wait!
Friday, May 24, 2013
It's your turn
For all of you living vicariously through my blog, PLEASE use the comment box once in a while. I'm out here in this huge amazing world all alone (oh poor me) and it would be nice to hear from some of you nice in a while. Hint...hint!!!!!
Jeti Orghuz Valley
We slept in, like until after 9:00! It was a VERY cold night. Sure glad to have that subzero sleeping bag! We all welcomed the warm sun and rising temps. Breakfast as usual was followed by a grand hike up into a neighboring valley and to a really splendid waterfall. Like all the British and Aussie adjectives I'm using?
I split off from the group and visited a family setting up their summer yurts. We chatted and I was invited to have tea. Didn't understand a word we each said. It was fun using sign language and sharing photos. We laughed a lot. So sweet and welcoming.
I found a huge open meadow on the way back and had lunch with a cow and a horse who seemed to be friends. They grazed together only feet apart for quite some time. The horse was interested in my apple. The cow not so much. In the end the horse won out and got half of the fruit!
Back in camp I set up a make shift pastry kitchen and made snicker/banana cream and strawberry/chocolate tarts-my gift to the group to follow our lamb BBQ tonight!
Erkin arranged for a group of fellows to BBQ a whole lamb in camp. They showed up in the late afternoon and put up their spit; started the fire. They used wood and then coal. It was a very hot fire. Then came the marinated meat and the turning began. The banquet lasted until none of us could move!
We had a grand bonfire. John and Ollie, we left you a huge tree by the campfire. Enjoy burning the last half!
I split off from the group and visited a family setting up their summer yurts. We chatted and I was invited to have tea. Didn't understand a word we each said. It was fun using sign language and sharing photos. We laughed a lot. So sweet and welcoming.
I found a huge open meadow on the way back and had lunch with a cow and a horse who seemed to be friends. They grazed together only feet apart for quite some time. The horse was interested in my apple. The cow not so much. In the end the horse won out and got half of the fruit!
Back in camp I set up a make shift pastry kitchen and made snicker/banana cream and strawberry/chocolate tarts-my gift to the group to follow our lamb BBQ tonight!
Erkin arranged for a group of fellows to BBQ a whole lamb in camp. They showed up in the late afternoon and put up their spit; started the fire. They used wood and then coal. It was a very hot fire. Then came the marinated meat and the turning began. The banquet lasted until none of us could move!
We had a grand bonfire. John and Ollie, we left you a huge tree by the campfire. Enjoy burning the last half!
Lake Ysyk-kol
We started our day with a second visit to the felt workshop. After dinner last night we compared our purchases and decided a return opportunity was in order. We also stopped at the market to shop for the next three days. We bought too much as usual. No one will starve. For a change there were many small grocery stores with a nice supply of some familiar products-especially Snickers bars!
With our retail needs satisfied we hit the road with Lake Ysyk-kol as our destination. It was an overcast day for a change and the coolness was welcomed.
Lake Ysyk-kol is a high mountain lake, in size and elevation only second to Lake Titticaca in Bolivia. It is slightly saline having over 200 rivers flowing in and no outflow (very much like the Caspian Sea). It is over 2500 feet deep. We reached the lakeshore in just a couple of hours. The terrain on the south side is desert and today it was very, very windy. The dust storm was intense. Through one little village not a soul could be seen as the huge dust clouds engulfed everything in sight.
We found a spot with a small "windbreak" of trees and made lunch in the truck. Horse meat and cheese sandwiches with lots of fresh veggies. Interesting. One of the family, it seems, discovered she's allergic to horse meat and broke out in hives. The wind died down and the rain started. An hour later it was calm and the sun came out. It was still quite cool.
Our activity this afternoon was an eagle hunting exhibition. We were met by the eagle keeper and drove to a secluded area in the desert. After introducing us to the golden eagle, he released a rabbit, took the bird up to the top of the ridge, and let it go. Within seconds the eagle had the rabbit and was devouring it before our eyes. Bones and all it only took about ten minutes for the prey to be gone. Gruesome and interesting at the same time. We remarked that back home this type of exhibition would never take place!
Following the eagle event the weather gods came back with impeding gloom and we opted to drive to Karakol, second largest city in the country, and a guest house instead of camping. For $11 per person we got the entire faculty with a full kitchen. The drive along the coastline was nice despite the weather. Views of the mountains were overwhelming at times. As we neared town the desert transformed into fertile farmland.
With our retail needs satisfied we hit the road with Lake Ysyk-kol as our destination. It was an overcast day for a change and the coolness was welcomed.
Lake Ysyk-kol is a high mountain lake, in size and elevation only second to Lake Titticaca in Bolivia. It is slightly saline having over 200 rivers flowing in and no outflow (very much like the Caspian Sea). It is over 2500 feet deep. We reached the lakeshore in just a couple of hours. The terrain on the south side is desert and today it was very, very windy. The dust storm was intense. Through one little village not a soul could be seen as the huge dust clouds engulfed everything in sight.
We found a spot with a small "windbreak" of trees and made lunch in the truck. Horse meat and cheese sandwiches with lots of fresh veggies. Interesting. One of the family, it seems, discovered she's allergic to horse meat and broke out in hives. The wind died down and the rain started. An hour later it was calm and the sun came out. It was still quite cool.
Our activity this afternoon was an eagle hunting exhibition. We were met by the eagle keeper and drove to a secluded area in the desert. After introducing us to the golden eagle, he released a rabbit, took the bird up to the top of the ridge, and let it go. Within seconds the eagle had the rabbit and was devouring it before our eyes. Bones and all it only took about ten minutes for the prey to be gone. Gruesome and interesting at the same time. We remarked that back home this type of exhibition would never take place!
Following the eagle event the weather gods came back with impeding gloom and we opted to drive to Karakol, second largest city in the country, and a guest house instead of camping. For $11 per person we got the entire faculty with a full kitchen. The drive along the coastline was nice despite the weather. Views of the mountains were overwhelming at times. As we neared town the desert transformed into fertile farmland.
Bubble and Squeek
It was an overcast and rainy day with most ducking in and out of the truck. For lunch we brought out the last three days leftovers and made "bubble and squeak." That's Aussie/Brit for leftover stew. I get the bubble part, the "squeak" evades me. We cooked in the rain and ate inside Sura.
Packing up on the rain is a real drag. Wet muddy tents will remain that way for our next bush camp. Wet clothes on top of four days dirty laundry-virtually everything I have-and all smelling pretty rank may get even worse.
Hopes of sun and a light breeze were on everyone's mind as we drove out of the valley and to our warm hotel and hopefully a laundry facility.
At the first log bridge we discovered damage. We had to bring out the sand mats and reinforce the bridge with rocks and a new log. The "rebuild" took a while before it was safe to attempt a crossing.
Once back in Kara-kol we settled in at our hotel, connected via wifi and enjoyed a quiet evening vigor dinner we had a free night and went in different directions looking for something different to eat.
Packing up on the rain is a real drag. Wet muddy tents will remain that way for our next bush camp. Wet clothes on top of four days dirty laundry-virtually everything I have-and all smelling pretty rank may get even worse.
Hopes of sun and a light breeze were on everyone's mind as we drove out of the valley and to our warm hotel and hopefully a laundry facility.
At the first log bridge we discovered damage. We had to bring out the sand mats and reinforce the bridge with rocks and a new log. The "rebuild" took a while before it was safe to attempt a crossing.
Once back in Kara-kol we settled in at our hotel, connected via wifi and enjoyed a quiet evening vigor dinner we had a free night and went in different directions looking for something different to eat.
Up all night
Okay, it's my turn. Over the last eight weeks I've drank the local water and eaten fresh produce. I've sampled some pretty interesting food and drank my share of wine and vodka. I've watched other family members suffer through colds and runs to the toilet. I've dodged the bullet...or so I thought
It all caught up with me last night. Fever, chills, cold sweat, and Montezuma's revenge in full force! Yuk! Imodium, Ciprofaxin, Tylenol and lots of water followed a sleepless night.
Update: Tired, rehydrated, and sleepy. The trots have slowed to a crawl and I'm on an uphill swing. Now, where is some more of that horse meat and fermented wheat wine?
It all caught up with me last night. Fever, chills, cold sweat, and Montezuma's revenge in full force! Yuk! Imodium, Ciprofaxin, Tylenol and lots of water followed a sleepless night.
Update: Tired, rehydrated, and sleepy. The trots have slowed to a crawl and I'm on an uphill swing. Now, where is some more of that horse meat and fermented wheat wine?
Kyrgyzstan Entertainment
Our guest houses in Kochkor were very nice. Comfy beds and an adequate hot shower made the day.
For dinner we were treated to a group of traditional musicians in costume. They sang several songs while playing two Kyrgyzstani three-stringed mandolins, an accordion, and a percussion stick. A unique stringed instrument along with a mouth harp added to the fun.
The meal that followed was delicious. It was then an early night anticipating a long day tomorrow back into the wilderness.
For dinner we were treated to a group of traditional musicians in costume. They sang several songs while playing two Kyrgyzstani three-stringed mandolins, an accordion, and a percussion stick. A unique stringed instrument along with a mouth harp added to the fun.
The meal that followed was delicious. It was then an early night anticipating a long day tomorrow back into the wilderness.
Kochkor
Breaking camp this morning came with the decision to not only take away our own trash (we always do) but also to gather all the other debris left by countless other campers. It was quite an accumulation. By the time we were done we had about twenty bags of trash. We stacked it down the aisle between the seats and drove about 60 km to the next town where we deposited it in the local landfill. When our local family sees the next Dragoman truck arrive they will be welcomed even more. We all felt great about our random act of kindness!
Our drive today took us further through the mountains and over another summit, this time only 8700 ft. We passed through a lot of small villages and pasture land waving hello to the towns folk from the roof seats of the truck. All the while magnificent snowcapped mountains rimmed the valleys.
The cemeteries are of particular interest with many small mausoleums made of stone and mud bricks, many elaborately decorated, and in many cases, much nicer than the surrounding homes.
As we climbed higher this time it got dryer and there were stretches of high desert -sand and scrub. Along the way we spotted our first snow leopard. Yippee!
At 5,000 ft everything turned green again and we stopped for lunch in a really cool meadow with a fast running stream. Tuna cole slaw, fresh oranges, and fire roasted beets and carrots. How healthy is that!
At 8000 ft we stopped by a nomadic family's yurt and gave them the rest of our food from today. They accepted it without hesitation. At the summit were herds of horses and so many spring foals.
Our final stop was at a handmade felt workshop. This retail experience was worth every minute. We were shown the process for making the wool felt, made a small piece for the group to hang in the truck, and then were shown how a traditional felt yurt is taken down and set back up. Our two hour visit was both entertaining and truly unique, not to mention the extremely attractive hostess. The prices of the felt marquetry rugs were ridiculously inexpensive and a "few" of us bought some!
Our accommodations tonight were in three guest houses with hot showers. We're back to the bush tomorrow night!
Our drive today took us further through the mountains and over another summit, this time only 8700 ft. We passed through a lot of small villages and pasture land waving hello to the towns folk from the roof seats of the truck. All the while magnificent snowcapped mountains rimmed the valleys.
The cemeteries are of particular interest with many small mausoleums made of stone and mud bricks, many elaborately decorated, and in many cases, much nicer than the surrounding homes.
As we climbed higher this time it got dryer and there were stretches of high desert -sand and scrub. Along the way we spotted our first snow leopard. Yippee!
At 5,000 ft everything turned green again and we stopped for lunch in a really cool meadow with a fast running stream. Tuna cole slaw, fresh oranges, and fire roasted beets and carrots. How healthy is that!
At 8000 ft we stopped by a nomadic family's yurt and gave them the rest of our food from today. They accepted it without hesitation. At the summit were herds of horses and so many spring foals.
Our final stop was at a handmade felt workshop. This retail experience was worth every minute. We were shown the process for making the wool felt, made a small piece for the group to hang in the truck, and then were shown how a traditional felt yurt is taken down and set back up. Our two hour visit was both entertaining and truly unique, not to mention the extremely attractive hostess. The prices of the felt marquetry rugs were ridiculously inexpensive and a "few" of us bought some!
Our accommodations tonight were in three guest houses with hot showers. We're back to the bush tomorrow night!
Hiking in the Aral Gorge
A peaceful night with scattered showers was followed by a bright and sunny morning. We had breakfast by the river then made lunches for our day packs. Half of the group opted to stay in camp. Dave spent the day servicing the truck, changing oil, etc. He's such a good lad!
The rest started up the gorge. The views were amazing as we climbed higher. We discovered a pair of vipers in the shadow of a large rock, as well as lizards and lots of gophers. The trail was constantly uphill-not my favorite type of hike! After two hours the trail became a climb, versus an adventure and I opted to find a comfortable rock and do a sketch. The sound of the cool breeze and the occasional bird calls were revere.
I left my perch at 7,000 ft and climbed down through what I am calling a field of yellow "fireweed" and then across another small ridge where I promptly got a bit lost. After finding the river I was back in camp two hours later making the hike a five hour adventure for sure.
My cook team was in charge of dinner tonight and we had MEXICAN! To that we added an awesome lentil soup and carmelized wild iris roots (tastes like green onions) and wild asparagus, we think! We invited the local family to join us and gave them an unplanned sum as thanks for sharing their land. Life is sweet!!!!!
We ran out of firewood for tonight's fire so we went out and collected cow and horse shit. It burns really well!
The rest started up the gorge. The views were amazing as we climbed higher. We discovered a pair of vipers in the shadow of a large rock, as well as lizards and lots of gophers. The trail was constantly uphill-not my favorite type of hike! After two hours the trail became a climb, versus an adventure and I opted to find a comfortable rock and do a sketch. The sound of the cool breeze and the occasional bird calls were revere.
I left my perch at 7,000 ft and climbed down through what I am calling a field of yellow "fireweed" and then across another small ridge where I promptly got a bit lost. After finding the river I was back in camp two hours later making the hike a five hour adventure for sure.
My cook team was in charge of dinner tonight and we had MEXICAN! To that we added an awesome lentil soup and carmelized wild iris roots (tastes like green onions) and wild asparagus, we think! We invited the local family to join us and gave them an unplanned sum as thanks for sharing their land. Life is sweet!!!!!
We ran out of firewood for tonight's fire so we went out and collected cow and horse shit. It burns really well!
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