Sunday, June 30, 2013

Wutai Shan



A grand sleep in and five star breakfast preceded a quick taxi back to the airport. I even had time for one more Starbucks before Sura and the gang got here. There was a welcome home party editing for me with balloons and streamers. 




Gifts were distributed and we headed for the sacred mountain Wutaishan. Located in Shanxi Province, it is believed to be the earthly abode of the Bodhisattva of Wisdom, Manjushri, and for a thousand years it has been a focus of transnational pilgrimage for the Chinese, Tibetans, Mongols, and Manchus alike. This multi-culturalism, endemic of Himalayan art, is reflected in temple designs coming from Nepal, Tibet, Mongolia, and China. This includes paintings, sculptures. We will spend two days here exploring the mountain. 

We arrived just after noon and were processed through a gauntlet of ticket offices. The whole town and surrounding mountains and temples are a National Park!  The town is unashamedly a tourist mecca. One ticket for the entrance fee, one for the local bus ticket, one for the toliet access (just kidding...or am I), and then we boarded a transfer bus into town with Sura traveling behind. Talk about Brave New World!  Halfway there some fellow in a grey uniform and a name tag with just a number jumped onboard fit one more ticket check LOL!  And here's the kicker, those over sixty were free!  Yippee, a senior discount!

Our hotel host joined us to help with the silliness of getting into the town. Once all checked in we had lunch and laid out plans for the next two days.  Just gotta love the way the Chinese do certain things. Haha!

Friday, June 28, 2013

Globe Hopping

A little language confusion started the day. It took a few phone calls to get the hotel driver to understand which airport and in what city. Eventually all was settled and the drive took about two hours.   Once in Taijuan airport all went as smoothly as normal.  The $12 cup of Starbucks helped immensely!

A 2 1/2 flight got me to Ganzhou where I went through Chinese immigration without a hitch. Step One completed.

A short layover, two hours sitting in the plane on the runway, and then a 3 1/2 hour flight got me to Seoul around midnight. So much for my night on the town :-). Immigration and customs went smoothly. I raised a few eyebrows when asked how long I planned to stay. My answer of "just 12 hours" required an explanation.  Haha. I was surprised when he told me this happens often!

Couldn't get a room by the airport and it was so late that I decided to camp out in the terminal. Nice hard wooden benches!  Ugh!

I awoke at the crack of dawn, sore back and all. Ate at an American cafe. Cheese omelette and good coffee.  Bought some cigs for the lads, chocolate for the girls, and a tshirt for me. Gotta get the shirt!

Completed Step 3.  Officially out of Korea.  Boarded my first flight back to China landing in Shenyang International Airport.  When I finish this trip I will pretty much have seen most of China-and a lot of it from the air!

I'm LEGAL!  Step 4 done!  Now a two hour delay boarding, two more hours on the tarmack (sheesh) and it's on to Taiyuan, a shower, and a comfortable bed. I hook back up with Sura and the gang tomorrow morning. Yippee!





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Thursday, June 27, 2013

Pingyao


We arrived inside the walls of the old city around 5pm. It is totally perfect and almost fully original with the exception of remodeled 1000 year old buildings into shops, hotels, and restaurant. A Chinese wonderland bloke going back on the past.

Instead of flying out for Seoul tonight my wonderful personal agent at Expedia Plus was able to pull a few strings. She rebooked my flights to tomorrow morning.

Now I only have an hour layover in Ganzhou and arrive in Seoul late evening. I will get a hotel room there fur the night, get to see a bit if the city, and then be back in Taiyuan the next evening 

Sura and the gang will pick me up at the airport there on the way further north. I only miss two days from the itinerary, get to see a bit of Pingyao after all, and save $200 USD.

I may stay Tao's execution. We'll see!






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Wednesday, June 26, 2013

South Korea! Wha!!!!

Post:  So.....could not get my entry extended to this point. Tried several options. Weekends, office hours, travel days, and a combination of misinformation and delays (don't need to identify the source) and time running out has caused a "slight" change of plans.

My multi-entry one year visa's first 30 day China entry expires on the 28th.  So I am flying to Seoul, South Korea on the 27th and returning on the 28th so that I can re-enter China legally. This little adventure will require two train tickets, one local bus ride, a 9 hour layover in Ganzhou, a 14 hour layover in Seoul, and a hotel night in Taiyuan.

Grand Total:  $865 and three days out of the current tour itinerary.  I will miss out on all of Pingyao. I could have simply waited and been fined on my way to Mongolia (possibly as much as $800 USD) but I would have then risked not being able to get a Chinese visa again in the future.  That would mess up Tibet in 2015!

Frustration Level:  Priceless

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Black Dragon Temple

A short distance from the caves sits the Black Dragon Temple.  Taoist on origin it is a major temple in the area and offered some pretty cool paintings, design, and statuary. There wasn't a black dragon to be seen. There were plenty of green and gold ones!

Our drive north to Pingyao was hot bit pleasant with loafs of cave villages, planted terraces of corn and melon. We offered a ride to a stranded young roman from Israel who we met the night before...some new chats. She was very interesting...and pretty!

Upon arrival in Pingyao we checked into our guest house and I headed for the train station. Why, you might ask?  Read the next post. Yikes!









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A night in a cave.

After walking in Mao Zedong's footsteps it only seemed appropriate to sleep in a cave similar to his Yan'an digs.

We drove north 400km.  Along the way we passed countless villages with houses dug into the mountains and hillside. We reached the small hillside village of Lijishuan where over 600 people used to live, mostly all with the surname of "Li."  Now only about 40 occupy some of the many cave dwellings.

People have been living in caves in this region for over 5,000 years. Today it is estimated that over 1,000,000 still do. It's cheap, efficient, cool/warm, and safe.

Tonight we were guests of Mr. and Mrs, Li who converted their cave home into a guest house when their kids grew up and moved away.

Stone platform beds, a remote village (we rode a van part of the way then walked the rest of the way) and a quaint setting in a small canyon made the frustrating drive worth the effort-Tao got us lost again :-(.

Mrs. Li made us a lovely vegetarian dinner. That mixed with beer and the local hooch made for memorable night.










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Museum of the Republic

We visited the museum today after enjoying a panorama if the city of Yan'an. The facility is stunning in both architecture and display. It was as good as anything of its kin in Washington DC. We had a lovely guide who proudly introduced us to her history. There was a small section describing the US help during the revolution. Nicely done and recently updated; wonder what it used to say :-).  Photos are of the museum, the Mao statue and the entry hall. No other photography was allowed. I'd you are curious you can Google images for Yan'an Museum of People's Republic.

It rained last night the the skies were clear and blue...and it was HOT!



CCP Headquarters


Today we made our way to Yan'an, famous for being the final resting place for those on the Long March and the CCP headquarters for a brief time. When the diminished communist armies pitched up here at the end of the Long March, it signaled the beginning of Yan'an's brief period in the Sun. For 12 years, from 1935 to 1947, this backwater town was the CCP headquarters. We arrived late and visited the Headquarters site.  The caves where Zamora lived in simplicity were interesting. The place was swarming with Chinese tourists. The assembly hall was cool, looked exactly as in the photos. Tomorrow we visit the Chinese Central Communist Party Museum. 


 




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The great walls of Xian

We enjoyed a late morning and then visited the Temple of the Immortals.  It is a Taoist temple just a few blocks from the east gate of the old city. Beautiful in its simplicity and surrounded by a Sunday antique market where we saw a lot of really good stuff and even more junk :-).

We climbed the walls of the old city, some 60' tall and easily 40' wide. They form a complete rectangular enclosure that measures 9 miles around. We rented bikes and rode the walls. It took two hours to circle the old city.

The old city is full of new buildings, lots of high rises, and zillions of high end shops-Gucci, Tiffany, Dior, etc. scattered amount the glitz were the historic pagodas, temples, and palaces.

It was a great day although at times unbearably hot. It hit 104^ with a hideout of at least 85%. Amazingly uncomfortable.  And BTW, that's a clear sunny day. The smog is thick. Can't imagine breathing this stuff every day!

We enjoyed lunch at a posh restaurant and strolled to local Walmart. LOL. They had a greeter at the front door-an older Chinese lady with a big smile handing out shopping baskets. Just like home!








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Sunday, June 23, 2013

And then it happened..

 Just when i thought i has escaped. No words can express my disappointment!

Terracotta Warriors and the Tombs of Jingli

Well, totally blown away by the site!  Saw an exinbit from here in Chicago in 1978 and vowed then that some day...

The site was beautifully done, modern, fresh, functional. The puts being excavated revealed so much more than    Photos and movies, etc.

We had a grand and charming guide who did a great job of presenting the site. After viewing the excavations we toured the museum.

After lunch we rented a private car and headed out to the tombs of a Emperor Jingli and Empress Wang.  The underground site was just as amazing as the warriors, only in miniature. Really cool. Take a good look at the little ones. They were morphologically correct. Ha-ha.











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Saturday, June 22, 2013

Frustration

OK, I said I wouldn't complain again but...yesterday afternoon was probably the most frustrating day I have had in a LONG TIME!

We arrived in Xian shortly after 2:00 to a five star hotel in the center of the tourist district; upscale with beautiful rooms and great Wifi. We were a bit uncomfortable parking our muddy truck in front and lugging in backpacks. We looked a bit out of place-ha-ha!

With the afternoon free it was time for me to get my visa extended. My current one expires in six days-I need a 12 day extension. My research and confirmation told me it would be a 20 minute process at the local public service office.  It was also a good time to mail that big box of stuff home and there was a China Post a few blocks away.

Our guide insisted on going with me even though I was confident I could get it done alone. He also insisted that the Chinese postal service was totally unreliable-Lonely Planet says they are fine. I insisted so he got a cab and we headed out. He had to ask directions twice (there's a post office just about every three blocks).

We arrived at China Express Postal and Logistics. He insisted this was the national postal service. They weighed, repackaged and quoted me $500!  By this point I was fit to be tied. I picked up the 50 lbs box and walked into the street.

One block down was a China Post station. We went in, he started to talk and I interrupted. Using sign language and a few Chinese words I learned that yes I could mail the package but that I would need to go to a nearby substation a few blocks away. He gave me directions in Chinese which I clearly understood.

Once on the street Tao insisted that we needed to go to the passport office first. I said we needed to go to the PBS. We disagreed. We stopped several cabs but none would give us a ride. By 4:30 we had waited almost 45 minutes and could not get a cab. I told him that it was too late-he insisted the visa office was open until 6pm.

I picked up the box once again and said I was going to the post office with or without him and started walking. At the next corner he said to turn right.  I told him it was two more blocks. He made some comment about when did I learn to speak Chinese and walked off. I relented carrying the huge and heavy box. Two blocks in the wrong direction we were lost once again. I stopped a policeman and asked for help. He confirmed that I was originally right. We arrived at the postal location ten minutes after they had closed!

A few telephone calls later we learned that the visa office closed at 4:30!  The PBS was still open but on the other side of town. It took another 30 minutes and a 100 yuan bribe to get a cab back to the hotel.

I've learned two things. First, I'm trusting my instincts and Chinese language skills in the future. Second, I'll get this stuff done on my own. Lastly, I'm gonna kill this idiot the first chance I get!

Whew!  Glad I got all that off my chest!

Friday, June 21, 2013

To Xian

With no wifi now for three days and still raining, we departed Pingliang
heading for Xian, capitol of Shaanxi Province, and home to the famous Army of
Terracotta Warriors!  We'll be here for three days. 

A full city tour, nightlife, the Terracotta site, extensive historic sights, getting
visa extensions, and mailing home packages of souvenirs and winter gear are on the
agenda. We'll also be saying goodbye to Viton, our Vietnamese Aussie, who flys home
tomorrow. 

The four hour drive on the toll road was uneventful and arriving in this massive
city was a sight to behold. Skyscrapers and construction went on for miles. The
amount of people (6 million) and traffic was mind-boggling. We're below 1,000 ft and
the rain had stopped. We settled into our comfy 4* city center hotel to rest, catch
up, and regroup. 

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Red World

After drying off and warming up we realized it was Zero Beer Thirty (oh,
Bobbie, shoulda come)!  Now finding a cold one in a warm beer town is not easy! 
Eventually we discovered a small store hiding an chest refrigerator under a
canvas-you have to really work at this stuff sometimes. Magically appearing were
eight cold ones. The four of us consumed with glee chatting with the folks coming
home from work. Amazing how much you can accomplish with a smile and a hello, a few
photos on the iPhone and a bunch of curious kids!

Gathering forces we decided to attack an upstairs restaurant that had windows
overlooking to park below. "Red World" hesitantly welcomed us-they don't get many
faces like ours in this small town. The place was of course completely done up in
red-thus the name. 

The menu was all in Chinese and no one spoke English so we wandered around the other
tables looking at everyone's food, pointing and commenting!


Eventually a banquet appeared, individual boiling hot pots, sliced meats, fish,
prawns, a dozen or so different veggies, wine, beer, and a bottle of Chinese hooch
hidden under the table!

We were making quite a stir with photo requests from other guests, the guys in the
private room next door yelling and laughing at our hair and beards, and the kitchen
staff (all 20+) constantly coming out to check in our status.

A few extra plates of food appeared, more beer and more laughs!  We ended the
evening with several versus of Old Lang Syne, both in English and Chinese-they claim
the song is original to them-thanks goodness Robbie Burns isn't in our group!

A few hugs, more photos, and even a kiss on the cheek for me from the head chief was
followed by the bill!

Yikes!  For the six of us, all that food and drink, all that fun, came to a
staggering $52 USD!

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Kongtong Mountain





Home of Taoism, this magnificent collection of temples perched high above the city of Pingliang is amazing...even in the pouring rain. We left the hotel at 10:30 (it was REALLY raining earlier). Remember all those Chinese paintings of craggy mountains shrouded in fog with temples perched on top? Well this is the place and it's for real. We toured the mountain, both middle and high, climbed over 1,800 stone steps to the HIGH temple, and were amazed at all the carved gods and altars. Drenched to the skin we retuned down the 8,900 ft perch and back to a warm hotel room for the night. It was quite a day, both historically and physically challenging. It was Tao's first visit to to mountain. He took a lot of notes. Remember his promise a few days earlier! Sent from Leopard's iPhone. Read my blog at www.leopard2013.blogspot.com

Night Market

We slept a couple of hours and then hit the Lanzhou Night Market. I hadn't
slept well the night before so I decided to take a sleeping pill. Funny, it usually
takes a couple of hours to kick in so...
 



Squid on a stick
 
 

Chicken wings and things
 

Noodle bar
 

Sausage bar
 

Fried veggies on a stick
 

Potatoes
 

Scheun noodle bar

Fried pork and jalapeƱo sandwiches
 

Shrimp, crawfish, mussels, clams, snails
 

Tripe
 

Land snails in chili sauce - these were the best
 

BBQ whole fish. This was bass. 
 

Fresh ham sandwiches
 

Boiled sheep heads. It is cut in half and you pick out the brain with chopsticks.
Hmmmm!
 
 Ate it all and went to bed!  Pill kicked in...ah!
 


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